The Homeowner’s HVAC & Plumbing Glossary
Heating, cooling, and plumbing systems come with a lot of specialized terminology. When your technician mentions a compressor, BTU rating, or expansion valve, though, you don’t have to feel lost.
This comprehensive HVAC glossary and plumbing glossary breaks down essential terms into plain English so you can understand your system, ask informed questions, and make confident decisions about repairs, upgrades, or maintenance.
Whether you're researching a new furnace, troubleshooting low water pressure, or comparing efficiency ratings, this page serves as your go-to glossary of HVAC terms and plumbing terminology.
If you need help at any time, call A.J. Perri at 732-733-2451 or schedule service online.
Table of Contents
HVAC System Basics
Air Conditioning Systems
Heating Systems
Air Quality & Ventilation
Airflow & Ductwork
Efficiency & Performance Ratings
Plumbing Terms Glossary
Smart Home Controls & Thermostats
Water Heaters (Tank & Tankless)
Water Filtration & Purification
System Maintenance & Home Safety
Service Options, Warranties, & Financing
HVAC System Basics
Here are the foundational HVAC terminology definitions every homeowner should know.
Air Changes per Hour (ACH): How often indoor air is replaced within an hour, which is important for ventilation and air quality.
Air Handler: The portion of the central air conditioning or heat pump system that moves cooled or heated air throughout a home’s ductwork. In some systems, a furnace will handle this function.
Blower Motor: Inside the air handler, the blower motor is an electric motor that drives the fan (also called a squirrel cage) to circulate air through an HVAC system.
CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute): The unit commonly used to measure the rate of airflow in an air conditioning system.
HVAC: Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning. it refers to the full system that controls temperature, airflow, and indoor comfort.
Split System: The combination of an outdoor unit (air conditioner or heat pump) and an indoor unit (furnace or air handler). The indoor and outdoor units must be properly matched for optimal efficiency. This is the most common type of system installed in a home.
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Air Conditioning Systems
This part of your HVAC system components glossary focuses on cooling.
Air Conditioner/AC: A system for controlling the humidity and temperature in a building or vehicle.
AC Tune-Up: Seasonal inspection and maintenance to ensure your air conditioner runs efficiently and reliably.
Compressor: The pump that moves the refrigerant from the indoor evaporator to the outdoor condenser and back to the evaporator. The compressor is often called “the heart of the system” because it circulates the refrigerant.
Condenser Unit (Outdoor Coil): A series or network of tubes filled with refrigerant, normally located outside the home, that removes heat from the hot, gaseous refrigerant, causing the refrigerant to condense back into a liquid.
Contactor: An electrical switch that turns the outdoor unit on and off.
Drain Pan: Also referred to as a condensate pan, this is the pan and drain line that collect and remove water formed when your air conditioner or heat pump cools air. Keeping it clear prevents leaks, water damage, and mold growth.
Defrost Cycle: In heat pumps, a process of removing ice or frost buildup from the outdoor coil during the heating season.
Evaporator Coil (Indoor Coil/A-Coil): The other half of an air conditioning system, this is a network of tubes filled with refrigerant located inside the home within the indoor unit. It takes heat and moisture out of indoor air as liquid refrigerant evaporates.
Expansion Valve (TXV): A valve that controls how much refrigerant enters the evaporator coil.
Mini-Split (Ductless): A system that heats and cools individual rooms without ducts. With an outdoor compressor and indoor air handlers, it offers efficient, zone-specific comfort. Ideal for additions, older homes, or spaces where installing ductwork isn’t practical.
Refrigerant: The chemical substance that absorbs and releases heat as it cycles through the system, producing a refrigerating effect.
Refrigerant Charge: The correct amount of refrigerant required for efficient operation.
Short Cycling: When an HVAC system turns on and off too frequently without completing a full heating or cooling cycle, reducing efficiency and increasing wear on components.
Superheat/Subcool: Measurements used to check refrigerant levels and system performance. Superheat measures how much vapor is heated above boiling, while subcool measures how much liquid is cooled below the condensing temperature.
Two-Stage Cooling: The air conditioner/heat pump has a compressor with two degrees of operation: high for hot summer days and low for cooler days. The low setting handles cooling demands about 80% of the time.
Variable-Speed Compressor: A compressor that adjusts its speed to match heating or cooling demand, providing more precise temperature control, improved efficiency, and quieter operation.
AC Problems & Solutions
AC Blowing Warm Air: Usually caused by thermostat settings, low refrigerant, or dirty coils. Check that the thermostat is set to cooling mode, replace the air filter, and ensure the outdoor unit is running.
Frozen Coil: Ice buildup on your coil is often caused by restricted airflow or low refrigerant. Turn off the AC to let it thaw and replace the filter; call a technician if it continues.
High Humidity: Caused by AC not removing enough moisture, often from short cycling or improper sizing. Check the filter and thermostat settings; persistent humidity may require professional evaluation.
Weak Airflow: If you notice reduced airflow from your vents, the culprit is likely clogged filters, blocked ducts, or blower issues. Replace the air filter and make sure your vents and returns aren’t blocked.
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Heating Systems
Auxiliary Heat: A backup heating system that works alongside a heat pump when outdoor temperatures are too cold for the heat pump to operate efficiently.
Burner Assembly: The group of components in a gas furnace that mix fuel and air, ignite the flame, and generate heat for the system.
Draft Inducer: A small fan in a furnace that pulls combustion gases through the heat exchanger and safely vents them outside the home.
Flame Sensor: A safety device in a gas furnace that detects whether a burner flame is present and shuts off the gas supply if no flame is detected.
Flue: A vent, duct, pipe, or chimney for carrying exhaust gases from a fireplace, furnace, water heater, boiler, or generator to the outdoors.
Furnace: The part of the heating system that converts gas, oil, electricity, or other fuel into heat for distribution through ductwork and vents.
Gas Valve: A control device in a gas furnace that regulates the flow of fuel to the burners and shuts it off when heat is not needed or if a safety issue is detected.
Heat Exchanger: A metal component inside a furnace that transfers heat from the combustion process to the air that circulates through your home while keeping exhaust gases safely separated.
Heat Pump: A refrigeration system that can reverse its cycle to either heat or cool a space.
Igniter: A component in a gas furnace that lights the burner to start the heating process, replacing the need for a standing pilot light in most modern systems.
Limit Switch: A safety control inside a furnace that monitors temperature and shuts the system off if it begins to overheat.
Thermocouple: A safety device that detects whether the pilot light is on and shuts off the gas if the flame goes out.
Two-Stage Heating: A furnace with two stages of heat output: high for cold days and low for milder days. The lower setting meets heating demands about 80% of the time, running longer for better efficiency and comfort.
Variable-Speed Furnace: The fan motor continuously adjusts its speed based on your home’s heating and cooling needs. This improves temperature consistency, airflow, humidity control, filtration, efficiency, and quiet operation.
Heater Problems & Solutions
Carbon Monoxide Alarm Going Off: Shut off all gas-powered devices, get fresh air by leaving the home, and call 911 right away. Have a licensed professional inspect your system only after emergency responders arrive.
Furnace Blowing Cold Air: Often caused by a tripped limit switch, dirty air filter, or ignition failure. Check and replace filters, reset the system, or call a technician if the problem persists.
Furnace Won’t Turn On: Could result from a tripped breaker, faulty thermostat, or failed igniter. Check power and thermostat settings; if still off, contact a professional.
Furnace Runs Constantly: Usually caused by a dirty filter, malfunctioning thermostat, or wrong-sized system. Replace the filter, check thermostat settings, and schedule a professional inspection if needed.
Burning Smell from Vents: Often caused by dust burning off at the start of the season, or an electrical/motor issue. If brief, monitor; if persistent, turn off the furnace and call a technician immediately.
Pilot Light Won’t Stay Lit: Caused by drafts, a dirty thermocouple, or a faulty gas valve. Check for drafts, clean or replace the thermocouple, and call a professional if the gas valve needs service.
Noisy Furnace: Common noises include rattling, booming, or whining due to loose panels, delayed ignition, or worn components. Inspect panels and vents; schedule professional service for internal issues.
For heating repair or installation, visit our heating services page.
Air Quality & Ventilation
This is a key section in any glossary of HVAC terms, because comfort isn’t just about temperature.
Air Purifier: A device that removes dust, allergens, pollutants, and other airborne particles from indoor air to improve air quality and promote healthier breathing.
Diffuser: A vent (grille) over an air supply duct with adjustable vanes that directs and evenly distributes conditioned air.
HRV/ERV (Heat/Energy Recovery Ventilator): A ventilation system that replaces stale indoor air with fresh outdoor air while recovering heat—and in the case of ERVs, also moisture—from the outgoing air. This improves indoor air quality, balances temperature and humidity, and increases energy efficiency.
HEPA Filter: A High-Efficiency Particulate Air filter that removes at least 99.97% of particles 0.3 microns in diameter or larger, commonly used in high-IAQ systems.
Humidistat: A humidity-sensing device designed to regulate humidity input by reacting to changes in the moisture content of the air.
IAQ (Indoor Air Quality): A measure of the cleanliness and health of the air inside your home, including levels of dust, allergens, humidity, and pollutants.
MERV Rating: Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value. A measure of how effectively an air filter captures airborne particles; higher ratings trap smaller particles for improved indoor air quality. The higher the MERV rating (1–16), the better the filter.
Media Filter: A thicker, pleated air filter designed to capture more dust, pollen, and debris than standard filters while allowing adequate airflow.
Negative Pressure/Infiltration: Negative pressure occurs when air exits a building faster than it enters, pulling in outside air. Infiltration is this unwanted airflow through gaps, which can cause drafts, uneven temperatures, and reduced HVAC efficiency.
UV-C Light: A type of ultraviolet light used in HVAC systems to kill or deactivate bacteria, viruses, and mold on coils and in the air, improving indoor air quality.
Whole-Home Humidity Control (Humidifier/Dehumidifier): Systems that add or remove moisture throughout your home to maintain balanced humidity, improve comfort, prevent mold growth, and protect wood, furniture, and indoor air quality.
Problems with Air Quality & Ventilation
Mold & Mildew: Microbial growth in vents or ducts can produce spores and a musty odor, affecting air quality. Regular cleaning and proper humidity help control prevent buildup.
Dust & Pet Dander: Airborne particles from pets, household dust, and debris can accumulate in ducts and on surfaces. Filter replacement and duct cleaning reduce allergens.
Dry Air: Low indoor humidity during winter can cause static, dry skin, and discomfort. Whole-home humidifiers help maintain balanced moisture levels.
Allergy or Asthma Triggers: Poor filtration, dust, pet dander, and mold spores can worsen respiratory issues. High-quality filters and clean ducts support healthier indoor air.
Improve indoor comfort with air quality services.
Airflow & Ductwork
Here are some common HVAC terminology definitions related to air movement.
Ductwork: A pipe or conduit through which air is supplied. Ducts are typically made of metal, fiberboard, or a flexible material. In a home comfort system, the size and application of ductwork are critical to performance and is as important as the equipment.
Manual D (Duct Design): The industry-standard procedure for designing and sizing ductwork in a home, ensuring proper airflow, balanced temperatures, and efficient HVAC system performance.
Static Pressure: The resistance to airflow within an HVAC system’s ducts. High static pressure reduces efficiency, limits airflow, and can strain equipment.
Return & Supply Air: Return air is the air pulled from rooms back into the HVAC system for conditioning, while supply air is the heated or cooled air delivered through vents to the living spaces. Proper balance ensures comfort and efficiency.
Damper: Found in ductwork, this movable plate opens and closes to control airflow. Dampers can be used to balance airflow in a duct system. They are also used in zoning to regulate airflow to certain rooms.
Zoning System: A method of sectioning a home into different comfort zones so each zone can be individually controlled depending on use and need. This air conditioning system is capable of maintaining diverse conditions for various rooms or zones.
Airflow & Ductwork Problems & Solutions
Duct Leakage: Conditioned air escaping through gaps or loose duct connections, reducing comfort and efficiency. To fix this, seal visible joints with mastic or foil HVAC tape and schedule a professional duct inspection if needed.
Air Balancing: Adjusting airflow to ensure even temperatures throughout the home. Make sure vents are open and unobstructed; a technician can fine-tune dampers if rooms still feel uneven.
High Static Pressure: Excess resistance in ductwork that restricts airflow and strains the system. Replace dirty filters and check for blocked vents; persistent issues require professional testing.
Uneven Cooling (Hot & Cold Spots): Temperature differences between rooms due to airflow or duct issues. Check vents and filters first; ongoing problems may need duct adjustments or system evaluation.
Efficiency & Performance Ratings
AFUE: Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. A measure of a gas furnace's efficiency in converting fuel to energy. The higher the rating, the more efficient the unit.
BTU: British thermal unit. The standard of measurement used to gauge the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water by one degree (Fahrenheit).
BTUh: British thermal units per hour. 12,000 BTUh equals one ton of cooling.
EER: Energy Efficiency Ratio. Measures an air conditioner’s cooling output (BTUs) divided by its electrical input (watts) under standard test conditions.
Degree day: A computation that measures the amount of heating or cooling needed for a building. A degree day is equal to 65 degrees Fahrenheit minus the mean outdoor temperature.
ENERGY STAR®: A certification program backed by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) that identifies heating and cooling systems meeting strict energy efficiency standards. Products with the ENERGY STAR label use less energy, help lower utility bills, and reduce environmental impact compared to standard models.
Hertz: A measure of the number of cycles or wavelengths of electrical energy per second; U.S. electricity supply has a standard frequency of 60 hertz.
HSPF: Heating Seasonal Performance Factor. This rating is used in measuring the heating efficiency of a heat pump by taking the average number of BTUs of heat dispatched for every watt-hour of electricity used by the heat pump. The higher the number, the more efficient the system.
Kilowatt (kW): A unit of power equal to 1,000 watts. Energy use is measured in kilowatt-hours (kWh).
Load Calculation/Manual J: The process of determining the exact heating and cooling capacity a home needs, based on factors like square footage, insulation, windows, climate, and air leaks, to ensure the HVAC system is properly sized for comfort and efficiency.
PSI: Pounds per square inch. Measures the pressure of a fluid or gas in a system.
PSIA: Pounds per square inch, absolute. Pressure measured relative to a perfect vacuum.
PSIG: Pounds per square inch, gauge. Pressure measured relative to atmospheric pressure.
SEER: Stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the unit and the lower the operating cost. The U.S. Government's minimum SEER rating is 10.
Thermal Envelope: The barrier of insulation, windows, doors, and air sealing that separates a home’s conditioned indoor air from outdoor air, helping maintain temperature and energy efficiency.
Ton: A unit of measurement used for determining the cooling capacity of a system. One ton of cooling is based on the amount of heat needed to melt one ton (2,000 lbs) of ice in a 24-hour period. One ton of cooling is equal to 12,000 BTU/hr.
Watt: The unit of electrical power equal to the flow of one amp at a potential difference of one volt. A single watt is equivalent to the work done at a rate of 1 joule (the SI unit of energy, measuring heat, electricity, and mechanical work) per second.
Volt: A unit of measure of electrical force given to the electrons in an electric circuit. A single volt is the electromotive force that will cause a steady current of one ampere to surge through a resistance of one ohm. Abbreviated by the symbol “V”.
Voltage: The force that pushes electrical current along wires and cables. Voltage indicates the potential difference in a circuit and is the pressure that causes current to flow.
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Plumbing Terms Glossary
Here are some plumbing terms explained, including plumbing parts and definitions like drains, sewers, and fixtures.
Backflow Preventer/RPZ Valve: A safety device that prevents contaminated water from flowing backward into the clean water supply. An RPZ (Reduced Pressure Zone) valve is a common type used for high-risk applications.
Cabling (Snaking): A drain cleaning method that uses a rotating steel cable with cutting heads to break through localized clogs. Best for minor blockages.
Cleanout: A capped access point in a drain or sewer line that allows plumbers to clear blockages.
Ejector Pump: A pump that moves wastewater from lower-level fixtures (like basement bathrooms) up to the main sewer line.
Garbage Disposal/Horsepower (HP Ratings): A kitchen device that grinds food waste for disposal. Higher horsepower ratings provide greater grinding power and allow the disposal to handle tougher food scraps.
Hydro Jetting: A drain cleaning method that uses high-pressure water to remove grease, roots, and heavy buildup. Ideal for severe or recurring blockages.
P-Trap/S-Trap: A curved section of drainpipe that holds water to block sewer gases. P-traps are standard in modern plumbing; older S-traps are more prone to siphoning issues.
Plumbing Pipe Types: The most common pipes are PEX (flexible plastic pipe), copper pipe (durable metal pipe), PVC (rigid drain pipe), CPVC (hot/cold water plastic pipe), and galvanized (zinc-coated steel pipe).
Potable Water vs. Non-Potable Water: Potable water is safe for drinking and household use. Non-potable water is not safe to consume and is typically used for irrigation, industrial, or drainage purposes.
Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV): A valve installed on the main water line that lowers incoming water pressure to protect plumbing fixtures and pipes.
Sewer Camera Inspection: A diagnostic service that uses a small camera to inspect sewer lines for cracks, clogs, or root intrusion from nearby trees.
Shut-Off Valve/Main Valve: A valve that stops water flow to a fixture or the entire home during repairs or emergencies.
Soldering vs. Press Fittings: Soldering joins copper pipes using heat and melted metal to create a seal, while press fittings use specialized tools to mechanically seal connections without an open flame.
Sump Pump: A pump installed in a basement or crawl space that removes groundwater to prevent flooding.
Toilet Flange/Wax Ring: The flange secures the toilet to the floor and connects it to the drain, while the wax ring creates a watertight seal to prevent leaks and odors. Wax rings can dry out or compress as they age, causing leaks and unpleasant odors. Replacing the wax ring seal is a fast and affordable fix.
Water Hammer/Arrestor: Water hammer is a loud banging noise in pipes caused by sudden changes in water flow. A water hammer arrestor is a device that absorbs shock and prevents pipe damage.
Plumbing Problems & Solutions
Clog or Slow Drain: A drain blockage caused by grease, soap, hair, or debris buildup that restricts water flow. Try a plunger or drain snake to remove buildup that can block drainage; avoid chemical cleaners and schedule professional cleaning if the clog persists.
Foul Odor from Drains: Unpleasant smells caused by dry traps, buildup, or sewer line issues. Run water to refill dry P-traps and clean the drain; ongoing odors may require professional evaluation.
Gurgling Drains: Bubbling sounds from drains caused by trapped air, partial blockages, or venting issues. Check for slow drains and clear minor clogs; persistent gurgling may require professional inspection by a plummer.
Leaking Faucet: Dripping water from a worn-out washer, cartridge, or valve. Replace the faulty internal part to stop water waste and prevent higher utility bills.
Running Toilet: Continuous water flow into the bowl due to a faulty flapper, fill valve, or float. Adjust or replace the flapper or fill valve to restore proper operation.
Slab Leak: A water leak in pipes beneath a home’s concrete foundation, often detected through acoustic or infrared leak detection methods.
Water Backing Up in Basement: Wastewater reversing into lower-level drains, often due to a sewer line blockage. Stop using water immediately and call for sewer line service to prevent contamination and damage.
Smart Home Controls & Thermostats
C-Wire (Common Wire): A low-voltage wire that provides continuous power to a thermostat, often required for smart and Wi-Fi models.
Programmable Thermostat: A thermostat that allows you to set temperature schedules for different times of day or days of the week.
Setpoint: The temperature or pressure at which a controller is set for the desired comfort level.
Smart Thermostat: An advanced thermostat that automatically adjusts temperatures based on habits, sensors, or learning features to improve comfort and efficiency. Many are connected to the internet, allowing remote control and monitoring through a smartphone or app.
Scheduling/Setback: A thermostat feature that automatically adjusts temperatures at set times to save energy when you’re asleep or away.
Geofencing: A smart thermostat feature that uses your phone’s location to adjust the temperature when you leave or return home.
Zone Control Panel: A central control system that manages multiple heating and cooling zones by directing airflow to specific areas of the home.
Emergency Heat Mode: A setting on heat pump systems that switches to the backup heating source only, typically used if the heat pump isn’t working or during extreme cold.
Heat Pump Thermostat Settings: Specialized thermostat options (such as auxiliary or emergency heat) designed to properly manage how a heat pump operates for efficient heating and cooling.
Smart Home Control & Thermostat Problems & Solutions
Thermostat Not Responding: The thermostat display is blank or unresponsive, often due to dead batteries, tripped breakers, or wiring issues. Replace batteries, check the circuit breaker, and ensure the unit is securely connected; call a professional if it remains unresponsive.
Thermostat Miscalibration: The thermostat reads the wrong room temperature, causing the system to run too often or not enough. Check placement away from drafts or heat sources and recalibrate or replace the unit if needed.
Contact the smart home specialists at A.J. Perri to upgrade your home.
Water Heaters (Tank & Tankless)
Expansion Tank (Water Heater): Absorbs excess pressure from thermal expansion in closed water systems to protect pipes and the tank.
First Hour Rating (FHR): Measures how much hot water a tank water heater can deliver in one hour. Often paired with Gallons Per Minute (GPM) for tankless systems to gauge flow and capacity.
Heat Pump Water Heater: Uses electricity to move heat from the surrounding air into water, offering higher efficiency than standard electric heaters.
Recirculation Pump: Moves hot water through pipes so faucets get instant hot water, reducing waste and improving convenience.
Tank Water Heater (Gas or Electric): Stores and heats a set volume of water using gas burners or electric elements. Relies on an anode rod to prevent corrosion and typically lasts 8–12 years.
Tankless Water Heater: Heats water only when needed, providing endless hot water. Requires periodic flushing and descaling to maintain efficiency.
T&P Valve (Temperature & Pressure Relief Valve): Safety device that releases water if the heater overheats or pressure builds too high.
Water Heater Troubleshooting
Water Heater Not Enough Hot Water: May be caused by sediment buildup or a damaged dip tube. Flushing the tank or replacing the dip tube often restores full capacity.
No Hot Water: Can result from a tripped breaker, faulty gas valve, or failed heating element. Inspect power supply and components, and repair or replace as needed.
Water Too Hot: Usually caused by a misadjusted or faulty heating element or thermostat. Adjust or replace components to prevent scalding.
Water Leaking from Heater Base: Often indicates internal corrosion or a failed drain valve. Inspect the tank; replacement may be the safest long-term fix.
Rusty Water: Rust-colored water signals a corroded tank lining or worn anode rod. Replacing the anode rod can restore water clarity.
Smelly Hot Water: A sulfur/“rotten egg” odor comes from bacteria reacting with the anode rod. Flushing the tank and installing an aluminum-zinc rod usually eliminates the smell.
Water Filtration & Purification
Chloramines: A combination of chlorine and ammonia used to disinfect water. Can impact taste, odor, and plumbing materials. Carbon filters or other specialized filtration systems help remove chloramines.
Reverse Osmosis (RO): A filtration method that pushes water through a semi-permeable membrane to remove minerals, contaminants, and impurities, providing clean drinking water.
Water Softener: A system that reduces hard water minerals like calcium and magnesium, measured in grains per gallon (GPG). Prevents scale buildup in pipes, appliances, and fixtures.
Whole-Home Filtration vs. Point-of-Use Filtration: Whole-home systems treat water at the main entry point, protecting all fixtures; point-of-use filters treat water at individual taps, ideal for drinking or cooking.
Learn more about water filtration and purification.
System Maintenance & Home Safety
Preventive Maintenance/HVAC Tune-Up: Routine inspections and seasonal checkups for HVAC and plumbing systems catch small issues before they become major problems. Services include cleaning, testing, filter replacement, coil maintenance, and refrigerant checks to extend system life.
Carbon Monoxide Detector: A device that senses dangerous CO gas from fuel-burning appliances. If triggered, evacuate immediately and contact emergency services. A.J. Perri can inspect heating systems to identify and repair CO risks.
Emergency Service: For urgent HVAC or plumbing issues, such as no heat, major leaks, or unsafe conditions, call 732-733-2451 to have a professional technician respond and prevent damage, ensuring your household’s safety.
Water in Ceiling or Utility Closet: Indicates a leak from pipes, condensate lines, or appliances. Quick fixes may involve shutting off water, clearing clogs, or repairing leaks. A.J. Perri technicians will locate the source of the leak and perform professional repairs to prevent damage.
Service Options, Warranties, & Financing
Financing Options: A.J. Perri partners with a financing company to make sure you get the service you need when you need it.
Manufacturer vs. Labor Warranty: Manufacturer warranties cover defects in equipment or parts, while labor warranties cover the actual work of installation. Understanding both helps protect your investment and avoid unexpected costs.
NATE-Certified Technician: A technician certified by North American Technician Excellence, demonstrating proven knowledge and hands-on expertise in HVAC installation, repair, and maintenance.
Service Guarantee: If for any reason you are not 100% satisfied with your equipment within one year of the original invoice date, A.J. Perri will make every effort to meet your expectations, or remove your equipment and cheerfully refund 100% of your money.
Schedule Online: Getting your HVAC and plumbing problems resolved is now easy with online scheduling. If you live in New Jersey, schedule your HVAC and plumbing service today.